March 5, 2004   daily bread comfort gourmet  
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Linda Everett, author of Retro Diner: Comfort Food from the American Roadside (Collectors Press), the definition of comfort food is, well, simple, simple and basic.

“It has good memories that go along with it; it’s tried and true. No California haute cuisine, no tofu, no twigs, ” she says.

Courtesy of Collectors Press

An expert on Americana, including diners, drive-ins, and 1950s celebrities, Everett says her recipes are collected from her extensive travels and interviews with diner owners, as well as from her own vast collection of recipes- many of which she found at thrift stores and yard sales. She says she has hundreds of cookbooks, from Duncan Hines to vintage Better Homes and Gardens.

Her own family comfort foods are macaroni and cheese, chicken and dumplings, and meatloaf. “I think comfort food is really what’s in your own family, in your own growing up—it’s something you remember your mom and your grandma fixing for you,” she says.

It’s no surprise then that the recipes in Retro Diner include several variations of macaroni and cheese and meatloaf. She says, “We did put in several different meatloaf recipes because people have an idea of what’s their favorite.”

When it comes to cooking, the hallmark of any good comfort food is the ingredients- what Everett calls real, basic foods. Fancy new equipment is out as well. Everett says she still uses some of the same kitchen items that her grandmother used.

“You don’t need to run to some specialty store and spend $9 a pound on Portobello mushrooms,” she says.

Nostalgia is also a key ingredient. “With me part of the whole thing is cooking a recipe that was used in our family for our generations,” she says. “It has a nice warm feeling about it—it’s tradition. I know it’s going to turn out right. It just kind of feels good.”

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