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he
arsenal of fashion photography has always included teen-agers with
great bone structure, chic clothes and a good makeup job. But now
it has another weapon: 19 years worth of computer-graphics technology
to help models look flawless on the page.
Since the
advent of Adobe Photoshop in 1982 and other design programs, the
fashion and advertising industries have been airbrushing pimples,
removing wrinkles and shaving off thighs with abandon.
"Everything
gets retouched to death," says Eric Feinblatt, a fashion photographer
and photography professor at the Fashion Institute of Technology
in Chelsea. "There’s nothing you see on any [fashion magazine]
cover that hasn’t been manipulated."
Though
the industry does not pretend to mirror real life, many are critical
of the way that photo manipulation alters an already staged image,
accusing it of removing life from people’s faces and contributing
to poor body image.
Michael
LaMount, a freelance photographer in Los Angeles, said he could
hardly recognize the face of actress Julia Roberts on the March
2001 cover of InStyle magazine. "There was no skin tone, no
definition," he says, "The face on the cover had so little
to do with her that they might as well put a mannequin there."
LaMount
objects to digital manipulation because by removing lines, chins
and shadows retouchers are erasing people’s individuality. "Once
you start airbrushing,
it becomes void of any kind of humanity," he explains.
But in
the world of commercial photography even the models know the point
of the picture is to create an image, not a portrait.
By the
time a photo is taken the model has already been heavily made up,
and her clothes pinned and tucked to her body. "How real is
it anyway?" says Candy Frisbe, a model who participated in
Fashion Week in Bryant Park in mid-February.
Megan
Shoemaker, who also modeled at Fashion Week, says readers are savvy
enough to know fashion photographs do not represent real life. "I
think that most people know that the images can be manipulated;
consumers are aware," she says.
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| In
YM's March 2001 issue the magazine wanted to see what singer
Christina Aguilara would look like with darker hair, neutral
lipstick and thicker brows. |
But not all
consumers are old enough to be so wise, critics say.
"Kids
see that stuff and think ‘the reality I see around
me is the expectation I have for my body’ " says Betsy Levin,
a spokeswoman for the Center for the Study of Anorexia and Bulimia,
part of the nonprofit Institute for Contemporary Psychotherapy near
Lincoln Circle. "Just to be exposed to the truth of the cutest
of the cute makes for unrealistic standards, and then you [alter]
that picture?" she says.
Physicians
and psychologists have long blamed fashion magazines for contributing
to eating disorders. They claim the fashion industry portrays an
ideal body that is far different from a normal healthy person.
About-Face,
an organization that combats negative and distorted images of women,
posts a "top ten offenders" list on their Web site. The
list includes Allure and Elle magazines and points to their ultra-skinny
cover girls.
"Until
women are confronted with their own mirror images they will continue
to measure themselves against an inhuman idea," the organization
says on its Web site.
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