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he
temperature of the water can drop to 30 degrees Fahrenheit. The
wait for waves can be interminable—relying on a tumultuous mix of
offshore winds, cold fronts and low-pressure systems. And then there’s
the threat of pneumonia. But for New York-based surfers looking
to catch a wave, the fact that it’s the middle of winter doesn’t
seem to matter.
"It’s
about as extreme as skiing in Vermont on a nasty day," says
Keith Johnson, a Santa Cruz, Calif., transplant, when he talks about
winter surfing. Johnson now lives in Manhattan and takes the A train
out to Rockaway Beach to get his surfing fix--a trip that can take
nearly an hour and a half.
There
are approximately 50 to 100 surfers from the New York City area
who are hardy enough to brave the winter weather, says Johnson.
"Whenever
it’s really good, no matter when it is, you’ll see guys out there,"
he adds.
t’s
not that they prefer the cold, necessarily, but dedication to the
sport sometimes necessitates it.
"Surfing
is like an addiction," says Kevin O’Driscoll, a surfer and
researcher at Columbia University. "It’s not like we prefer
going out in the winter. It’s not about masochism."
Although
it may be hard to believe, there are benefits to winter surfing,
especially in New York where the waves aren’t particularly good
in the summer. Since the presence of decent surf is so closely tied
to the weather, Johnson says, surfers have to be "junior meteorologists"
in order to determine whether a trip to the beach is worth it.
Another
benefit is the lack of crowds. Alex Karinsky, an Australian native
who grew up near the famous Bondi Beach and has been living in Manhattan
for 10 years, estimates that "not even a 10th that do it in
the summer" go surfing in the winter.
inter
surfers need equipment as well as waves. Specialized winter wet
suits are a must, says O’Driscoll. They are usually at least five
millimeters thick and include a hood. Boots are seven millimeters
thick, and the gloves, shaped like oven mitts, are five millimeters
thick. Improvements in wet-suit technology are making it easier
for surfers to brave colder waters.
"It’s
getting to the point that it’s not even hard core to go in the winter,"
says Johnson.
Even
encased in rubber, winter surfers usually don’t stay out for too
long. Johnson says that if everything is "just right,"
you can usually stay out for two hours. A drawback to not owning
a car is having to change on the beach, he says, a feat that makes
warming up a bit more difficult.

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