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n a narrow, hidden block in the East Village, New Yorkers are often called on to dine at any one of the clustered and madly competitive Indian restaurants.

Although the restaurants have distinctly Indian names like Gandhi and Rose of India printed in bold letters on each awning, the greatest irony is that almost none of the entrepreneurs came from India. Bangladeshi immigrants who settled near the 6th Street and 1st Avenue tenements almost two decades ago developed this block. Bangladesh shares a common culture with the neighboring Indian region of Bengal, except for its predominantly Muslim population.

Bengali cuisine features different ingredients and cooking styles than from other regions of India. Rice and fish dominate the Bengali kitchen, while Pakistanis and Sikhs prefer bread and meat.

"From area to area, the food is very variable," said Syed Ashraf, a waiter at Gandhi restaurant, a 17-year mainstay that proclaims to be the "ultimate in Indian restaurants." "South India and West India has very different food."