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I S S U E 1 |
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urritos weren't born in Mexico and neither were nachos. Yet Mexican food still has the reputation for consisting of just tacos, enchiladas, beans and rice. While these are all authentic Mexican dishes, they hardly define the entirety of Mexican cooking. "Americans have certain preconceptions of high and low cultures. Mexican is considered a "low" culture, compared to French," says Alexandra Leaf, chairwoman of the Culinary Historians of New York. "With Mexican food, most people think of Taco Bell, the fast food image ... They don't get the picture it can also be a big seabass, with spices and herbs." The
stereotypes persist, and they’re hard to disregard when the demand
is so strong.
Joseph Aguilar, owner of the newly opened second branch of Gabriela’s at 311 Amsterdam Ave., notes that when they first had Mexican arracheras on the menu, they didn’t sell very well. When they were renamed according to the better known American name, fajitas, they were a hit. Nachos, a purely American creation, were also added to the menu simply because the demand for them was so great. "I
come from the North Carolina town of Tarboro, which has a large
Mexican population," said Sally Moseley, who was trying the
fried cactus at Gabriela’s. "Yet the eateries they set up still
serve burrito and taco platters. I was very disappointed."
Manuel Pina-Zaras, 26-year-old chef at Gabriela's, was raised in Guadalajara, Mexico. Now he is bringing his flavorful home cooking to Americans. Instead of chips and salsa, diners at Gabriela’s will find a small bowl of frutas de vinagre, assorted vegetables like chickpeas and onions marinated in vinegar, lemon juice, pepper and salt. The menu also features authentic dishes like menudo, a popular Mexican stew consisting of honeycomb and tripe. Other delicacies include Yucatán-style roasted chicken, flavored with achiote, orange juice and garlic, and a variety of homemade tamales. |
"Real
Mexican cuisine can be very difficult; you have to know the flavors
to get it right…There are so many more elaborate recipes, we just
have to bring it to the people. Hopefully, by showing people more,
they will know more."
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